In very, very late 1999, my now-husband flew to meet me in Brasil. I’d been there for five weeks prior; the two of us spent three weeks there together. It was an awesome holiday. One of my favourites. Really.
But this
isn’t about the holiday. It’s about the
trip home. We’d flown there separately,
but we came home together. São Paulo to
Johannesburg, Johannesburg to Perth.
Mid-January, 2000.
When we got
on the plane in São Paulo, it was immediately clear to me that there were
exchange students (approximately a dozen of them) on our flight, heading home to
South Africa after 12 months in Brasil.
They were all with the same exchange program (it was definitely not
Rotary, possibly AFS, maybe some other group I was unfamiliar with), seated in
a big group a few rows behind us. I was
six years past the experience of flying home from exchange, but I recognized
them the moment that I saw them. They
all spoke to each other in English, but their accent wasn’t (only) South African
anymore – they’d all had their English changed after a year in Brasil. The change was different for each of them,
but it was a clear and genuine change of accent. For some, it was only on a few words. For
others, it was on everything; an edge that changed every single
pronunciation. Every one of them dropped
Portuguese words into their conversations – not an affectation of any sort; a
genuine “this is the right word” feeling that didn’t even allow them to understand
that they weren’t speaking English when they said it. Absolutely no one called them on any
Portuguese word in an English sentence – my guess would be that they were all
still thinking in both Portuguese and English and didn’t even notice that any
of the words weren’t English. And every single
one of them (even the late-teen boys) were visibly sad (and many were openly
crying) as the plane took off.
I knew who
they all were because I’d been them a few years earlier. And everyone else on the flight knew them a
little later, in between movies when there was only background music
playing. Specifically “Time of My Life”
by Green Day. They all sang. All cried.
All hugged each other and remembered the many, many times they’d heard
that song when they’d been in Brasil.
Even the ones who’d not seen each other between their flights to Brasil
in January 1999 and their flights home in January 2000. It was That Song. The one they’ll always, absolutely always,
remember.
For me, That
Song is “What’s Up?” by The Four Non-Blondes.
I’m 46 now; 28 years past my return from Brasil. And even now, 28 years on, that song reminds
me of Brasil, and very, very specifically of my best friend (another exchange
student), my host brother (who’d previously been on exchange to New Zealand)
and of one of the guys I went to school with (who was my only Brasilian friend
who knew all the words to the song in English).
Every time I hear that song, I remember my favourite dancing shoes
(black, strappy platform Mary Janes with a curved heel and double buckles), my
favourite shirt (midriff, twisted up in the middle with bell-bottom sleeves)
and the red-and-white striped dress that I bought especially for New Year’s
Eve. I see the river (called Green,
actually brown) that I walked over on my way home in the last four months of my
exchange. I see the church that was
across the road from my second house. I
remember the walk up the hill to my first family’s home. I see the praça (square) in town and
remember dancing in the Club with the balcony that overlooked it. There are so many memories associated with
that one song, and they’ve all persisted, nearly three decades later, whenever
I hear that song.